The Magnifique Podcast
Hi guys! Welcome to Magnifique, your favorite fashion lovers podcast.
My names Gabrielle and I’m a fashion industry newb, though I’ve loved playing dress up for as long as I can remember. The fashion industry is an intimidating space, filled with elitist know-it-alls, it's hard to feel invited to learn about the rich history behind modern-day fashion.
I started this podcast because time after time, I've tried to find podcasts to learn more about hmm: how Gilded Age fashion influences modern-day attire, or Marc Jacobs being the reason for Louis Vuittons ready-to-wear line, OR how Levi Strauss pioneered Western Denim…and I'm met with a graveyard of results. I can't find anything! So I guess if I want something in this niche, I must do it myself. I invite you to join me as I expand my knowledge of the fashion space. Together we'll kinda be geniuses of fashion.
The Magnifique Podcast
Episode 22 - Fragrance Chronicles: Perfume Through the Ages
Perfume encompasses a rich tapestry of cultural significance, tracing its origins from ancient civilizations to modern practices. This episode delves into how fragrance has evolved, intertwining with societal shifts, cultural rituals, and personal identity, while uncovering its transformative history across diverse eras.
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Hi, divas, and welcome to Magnifique, your favorite perfume history podcast. I'm your host, gabrielle, and today we do a little deep dive on the history of perfume. Now, perfume has taken many forms throughout the years and I've set out on a quest to learn how perfume practices of the modern day came to be. From ancient Mesopotamia to my modern day collection. What importance does perfume hold in terms of practices and appreciation? I was intrigued to learn how perfume became such a widespread topic with worldwide daily use. Specifically, I wanted to know its origins and how different cultures interact with scents. I wanted to know its origins and how different cultures interact with scents. Little did I know I was getting into some very ancient territory. That being said, there's a lot of perfume information that has come across my desk, so I invite you to check all of my sources, to dig deeper, even deeper than I'm going, because I feel like I've barely made a dent in every historical avenue. I've tried to condense them just for ease of my brain, but, like I said, I'll leave my bibliography. There's like 25 articles, so I really did try to do my due diligence, but soulavue, I guess.
Speaker 1:First, let's define where the word perfume came to us from. The term comes from the Latin phrase perfumum, meaning through smoke. The French later interjected with the name parfum, referring to the fragrance put off by burning incense. So the same thing the French just said my turn. Lastly, the Bible describes perfume in a sacred form, from Exodus 30, 22 through 33. And it calls for a liquid version of myrrh fragrant cinnamon, fragrant cane and cassia. Its use is forbidden for all except priests.
Speaker 1:Fun fact. Fun fact about me. I recently tried to read the bible and, as someone who doesn't get down with religion, I wanted to see what all the fuss was about. And y'all neglected to tell me that jesus is only half the story. I grew up Catholic so I did like practice in the church until I was like eight. I'm really good at practicing, but y'all neglected to tell me that Jesus is only in the last half of the story and I would need to sit through 1400 pages of homeboy God just being low-key mean. So I still stand firm in being a non-believer. However, you should know that I do freak with astrology heavy, so take my thoughts how you see fit, but where was I going with that? Truly, who's to say?
Speaker 1:Our history starts about 4,000 years ago among the Mesopotamian people, in the form of incense. The incense that was burned consisted of a variety of resins and woods used during religious ceremonies. So the use of perfume in ancient Mesopotamia closed practice, fun Mesopotamian fact. I know you feel like you're in 6th grade talking about Mesopotamia so much. I know you feel like you're in 6th grade talking about Mesopotamia so much. But the first perfume maker on record was a chemist named Tabuti Go woman. Stories of the inventor of perfume have been found on a clay tablet from Mesopotamia and it was around the 2nd millennium BC, and its main components were herbs and spices like coriander and myrtle. Flowers weren't used in the incense until much later in production. The herbs and spices that were used hold historical significance, tracing back to ancient trade routes.
Speaker 1:Speaking of important trades routes, perfume eventually found its way to ancient Egypt about 3000 BC. At first, the method of use was only in rituals for gods and pharaohs again, a closed practice. And in ancient Egyptian mythology there is a god of perfume, nerefum, the lotus blossom god, symbolizing perfume and aromatherapy. Legends associate Nerofum with the fragrant blue water lily, a key ingredient in ancient perfumes. The earliest recorded personal use of perfume involved Egyptians wearing wax cones filled with a fragrant flower, herbs and spices on their heads. The thought was that the wax would melt and the perfumes would waft down, scenting the wearer. You're wearing a perfume, little party hat.
Speaker 1:Basically, the use of perfume for religious affiliations arrived in ancient Egypt in 3000 BC, like I said, and continued its relation until the Golden Age. So the Golden Age was 2613 BC to 2494 BC, and this Golden Age in Egypt saw a rise of recreational use of perfume. So it was no longer strictly a closed practice though one would argue that it should have been just for the times, but glad it's not because I'm currently wearing a new perfume. So it became not just exclusive to rituals but is now being used for personal adornment by the upper class. Perfume use became a marker of social status. Queens like Cleopatra and Hatshepsut used scents extensively, not only for bodily use but also in their living quarters, their baths and in their tombs. The newly incorporated fragrance of the times were floral, woodsy and fruity notes my favorite notes, thank you.
Speaker 1:Ancient Egypt. Ancient Egyptians weren't alone in their cultural use of scents. Burning fragrant offerings and aromatic smokes for divination was a common practice among many cultures. The association with the divine and spiritual realms solidified the power of scent in ancient societies. The story of perfume in ancient Egypt highlights its evolution from a practice to a coveted personal accessory. It also underscores the deep connection between fragrance and cultural appreciation, a connection that continues to shape our relationship with scent today.
Speaker 1:Another ancient stop in perfume's historical world tour is ancient China and India. Perfume has been an important part of Indian and Chinese culture for centuries. In India, perfume was used in sacred tantric rituals, ceremonies and temples. In China, perfume was infused into many daily use items, such as ink and stationery. Chinese culture also used perfume for disinfection and purity, believing that the perfume would help rid a room of disease. That becomes very common practice, as you'll find out, and I don't know the scientific validity of it, but we should kind of be concerned. Um just generally. You'll see, in the renaissance both cultures focused less on anointing their bodies with fragrance and more on using it to scent the world around them. It was, however, during the sui and song dynasty that noble chinese people began to use personal fragrance. Um importing ingredients via the Silk Road by the Yunming and Qing dynasties, fragrance use began to become more widespread with the public. Oriental fragrances focused heavily on herbs and spices, many of which were also used for food and medicine.
Speaker 1:Next we find ourselves in ancient Persia. The Persian philosopher and physician, avicenna introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers via distillate distillation during the 11th century. The distillation process is still used today in the perfume industry, and Avicenna's method involved placing flower petals in a still and heating them with steam. The steam then carries the volatile oils from the flower, which condensed and collected in separate containers, further developing the art of distillation, making perfume manufacturing a viable option for large-scale samples. They ruled the perfume trade for hundreds of years and are credited as the inventors of non-oil-based perfume. Non-oil-based perfume, known as attar, is made from natural ingredients such as rosewater, musk and amber. I love amber. Thank you, ancient Persia, for amber. It's more concentrated and long-lasting than oil-based perfumes.
Speaker 1:Many Persian nobles are remembered for their use of fragrance and during the Sassanid period, which was 224 to 651 AD, the production of fragrances and infused water was quite prevalent in Persia. Persian kings had their own scents, their signature scents, and they were that their companions and relatives were not allowed to use. This is my scent. No one's allowed to smell like me. Do it, don't do it, or else During King Darius, which was 522 to 486 BC. So kind of out of order, but you get me, you get me. King Darius is often pictured holding his bottles of perfume or incense. They were very special to him. And King Xerxes had also been pictured with lily of the valley flowers, which were often used as fragrances. I still see them in fragrances today. They haven't gone anywhere. Thank you, persian kings. Persian kings often used perfumes to signify their power and status. They also used it in religious ceremonies to ward off evil spirits.
Speaker 1:Perfume making equipment and fragrance making workshops were very abundant in ancient Persia. The Persian people loved to experiment with different scents and ingredients. Perfume workshops in ancient Persia were often located in palaces and temples, and they were also found in markets and bazaars for production purchases Large-scale production purchases, thank you, ancient Persia. Next we have ancient Rome.
Speaker 1:Ancient Romans meticulously documented their perfume-making practices, leaving behind a wealth of information for modern scholars. For example, a mural found in a perfumemaker's house in Pompeii depicts the various steps involved in creating these fragrances. The careful documentation of the perfumemaking process has allowed for the recreation of several Greco-Roman fragrances today. Creation of several Greco-Roman fragrances today. These modern interpretations offer a glimpse of the past, allowing us to appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship of ancient perfumers. The world's oldest perfume factory, dating back to around 1850 BC, was discovered in the ancient city of Pygros Kilikias in modern-day Turkey. This discovery highlights the long and rich history of perfume making, which has been an important part of human culture for thousands of years, which has been an important part of human culture for thousands of years.
Speaker 1:Perfume was not only used for religious practices, but it also plays a significant role in the transformation of Rome from a small farming village to a global epicenter. And you may have heard of gladiators. They're known for their physical prowess and fierce battles, but they were also said to apply different scented lotions to areas of their body before their gladiator contests. This practice may have been intended to mask body odor or to create a sense of intimidation among their opponents. Um, how, how on the nose is that new gladiator movie? Are they applying lotions and fragrances before their little fights? I'm asking because didn't it come out? It came out the same time as wicked um with the paul mescal guy. Are they? Is historically accurate? Who's to say, I haven't seen it and if I am to speak my truth, I don't plan to see it.
Speaker 1:Perfumes and other scented products became a symbol of luxury and status, reflecting the city's growing wealth and influence. We're gonna take a call back to Egypt again. Cleopatra, the legendary queen of Egypt, was renowned for her beauty and her charm, and it's said she once greeted Mark Antony on a boat with scented sails. But also this act not only showcased her opulence and sophistication, but also served as a powerful symbol of her power and influence. The ancient cult of Aphrodite, the goddess of love and beauty, used perfume and scents in their temples and worship services. These fragrances were believed to have aphrodisiac properties and were thought to enhance the connection between worshiper and the goddess.
Speaker 1:During its peak, rome imported vast quantities of precious ingredients, such as frankincense and myrrh, which were used in the production of perfumes, cosmetics and scented products. It is estimated that the Romans used 2,800 tons of frankincense and 550 tons of myrrh per year. Fragrances were used in various aspects of Roman life, including the public bathhouse to scent the water, and in body care such as balms, oils and perfume for hair and skin. These products were not only used for their fragrance, but also for their perceived medicinal properties. Despite the widespread use of perfume, not everyone in ancient Rome was a fan. Pliny the Elder, a Roman philosopher or naturalist, condemned the use of perfume, considering them to be opulent and wasteful. Xenophobic tendencies against foreign stenches in Rome at its height of power may have contributed to the decline of use as well, as perfumes were often associated with foreign cultures and customs. So we're really just being racist. In ancient Rome, however, the love of perfume eventually resurfaced and by the 10th century, perfume making was once again thriving in Europe.
Speaker 1:Today, perfume continues to be an important part of our lives, evoking emotions, memories and a sense of luxury. The rich history of perfume making spanning thousands of years is a testament to the human fascination with fragrance. From the ancient Egyptians to modern day, perfume has continued to captivate and inspire us with their beauty and allure. Ancient times solidified many fragrance practices today, from our friends in Mesopotamia founding the religious practice to Persia enshrining the distillation process. So we and by we I mean I owe my entire collection and hyperfixation to civilizations so old that they barely seem real. I don't understand BC. I don't want to understand. That's not for me to understand, it's really none of my business. But it does kind of freak me out that a lot of the things that they like not go through. But experience in a day-to-day is pretty similar to us. I talked about it in my Tiffany Co episode. I don't understand how lives were so normal back then when it feels like everything we talk about is so ancient and old. And anyway, I'm going to spiral if I keep talking. Now. Let's talk about a time period that sounds a little more recent the Middle Ages. It feels like the Middle Ages were just yesterday.
Speaker 1:Crusaders brought back fragrant materials and techniques from the Middle East. The distillation technique for rose petals was among the acquired skills, the same distillation process adopted from ancient Persia. With the quote-unquote newfound distillation method, the Crusades were able to discover new scents. The introduction of new fragrances expanded the European perfume palette, and you may remember a devastating pandemic during the Middle Ages called the Bubbonic plague. During the bubonic plague, doctors wore the bird-like masks filled with herbs, spices and oils to ward off the plague as well as to neutralize the smell of the sickly and the general smell of death. The belief in power of scent to eliminate the stents of pestilence contributed to the increased popularity of fragrance use in their modern day.
Speaker 1:The next stage of perfume history brings us one step closer to modern history the Renaissance. The Renaissance marked a significant resurgence of perfume culture, with France emerging as its epicenter. This period witnessed the evolution of perfumery from simple scented oils to more complex alcohol-based fragrances. Queen Elizabeth of Hungary introduced modern perfume to Europe in the 14th century with Hungary water quote-unquote was its its title and it's an alcohol-based perfume made from scented oils. And Catherine de' Michi brought Italian perfumery traditions to France, popularizing the use of perfume among the European nobility. René Le Florentine, a renowned Italian perf perfumer, created signature scents for catherine medici, including one with orange blossom and bergamot. René le florentine's living quarters were connected to the royal palace via an underground tunnel. This allowed catherine medici to have new fragrances at the drop of a hat.
Speaker 1:Um, I have an incredibly vague memory of my family tree telling me that I have some very distant connection to Miss Medici, and I've been riding that high forever. Can I confirm whether this is true or not? Maybe I made it up in my head? Yeah, no, I can't confirm anything, but based on my vibes and how royal I feel, I'm obviously a royal descendant and I think we need to start acting as such. Gabrielle Forci Gonzales, a royal descendant of Miss Medici. Spread the rumor, please.
Speaker 1:King Francois I of France fostered a strong cultural and artistic exchange with Italy, which further accelerated the growth of French perfumery. His reign brought on an era where bathing was less common. Perfume was used to mask body odors and elevate social status. Perfumes incorporated animal-derived ingredients like ambergris, civet and musk to enhance their longevity and complexity. Since thought to cloak the smell of one's body, the Renaissance didn't bathe. They did carry palmanders, a scented ball to ward off unpleasant odors and to promote well-being of odors. And to promote well-being During the age of exploration of the Renaissance. This brought new raw materials like vanilla, cocoa and exotic spices, which expanded the perfumer's palate. The invention of the printing press facilitated the dissemination of perfume. Knowledge, recipes and techniques were shared across Europe, contributing to the growth of the perfume industry.
Speaker 1:I have been to the Renaissance Fair exactly once, so I do feel authorized to speak on this. If I had to go back for real, for real, to the Renaissance and smell rancid BL mixed with vanilla, I'm throwing punches. That's so vile and the fact that this was post-plague is astounding. I'll say it the Middle Ages and the Renaissance are my least favorite ages in history. I'm a modern woman. I was born in the right time period. I'm left speechless by their hygiene practices. But thank you so much for your fragrances. Um, and like I said, I can't get over your vile behaviors regarding hygiene. Our next timeline takes us to the 16th and 17th century.
Speaker 1:The 16th and 17th century the craze of perfuming. Everything was so extensive that even pets and jewelry were daubed with their owner's favorite scents. Perfume enjoyed huge success during the 17th century, especially in France. Hygiene in those days were pretty spotty and fragrances were used to mask the unpleasant body odors. England, perfumes were used extensively during the reign of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I. All public places were scented during Elizabeth's reigns because she could not tolerate bad smells, and me either, girl Fear of baths really began to settle in in the terrible context of the plague epidemic. Public bath houses were closed and individual practices to decrease completely stopped.
Speaker 1:The population fears that the water infiltrates into their bodies, inflating it and thus allowing the disease to enter. Okay, pop-off science. Water becomes a contagion factor and people wash themselves less and less. At the same time, appearance takes an incredibly prominent role. The art of appearance supplements hygiene and cleanliness. You can look hot, but you can also smell atrocious, and that's okay, because the duality of man in the 17th century says that that's allowed. From the 16th century, people only washed very occasionally and the practice is pretty superficial, since people just pour water on some parts of their bodies. Hygiene is rather a scrubbing by rubbing the skin of the clothes that impregnate with various essence. I felt so uncomfortable saying the word impregnate, but you know, it seems that the French King, louis IX, took a bath once a year.
Speaker 1:Perfume is used to hide the unflattering scents of badly washed bodies, and the smells are so unpleasant that the scented juices are very powerful and heady, that the scented juices are very powerful and heady. At the time, animal scents such as musk and amber were widely adopted for their olfactory power and aphrodisiac presence. So if you're wondering why everybody had so many kids but also stonk, think amber and musk. Other fragrant ingredients were also used, such as jasmine or tuberose, which overpowered everything and everyone. They used it on their bodies, of course, but also on wigs, clothes, food, tobacco. Animals were entitled to the aromatic essences. As it was not uncommon to perfume your little dog or exotic bird In the house, the perfume everywhere. Aristocrats had cushions filled with dried flowers and they used scented tablets to burn or sprinklers to hide unwelcomed odors. The court is flooded with fragrances, and the richest change their essence every day, me too, so I guess you can call me the richest in the 17th century, except I do shower daily, so I don't think I'd fit in.
Speaker 1:In the 17th to 19th centuries rank classism assigned smells deemed most foul to the bodies and lives of the poorest citizens. So the better you smell, the richer you are, I'd say. That kind of goes rings true for today. I would once again like to remind everyone and say thank you to modern science and disease control. I would rather get the plague than not bathe myself. So thank you, modern medicine. Okay, what is next? What is next?
Speaker 1:It was during the 18th century that things really started to pick up in the mainstream use of fragrance. 1709, a French perfumer proposed that different classes should be scented differently. Going back to rank classism, he concocted a royal perfume for the aristocracy and the bourgeoisie perfume for the middle class, but said the poor were only deemed worthy of disinfectant. Courts of Louis X, king of France 1750 to 1774, la cour de parfum, aristocracy were expected to wear a different perfume every day. Besides, the expenses in this matter were enormous, more important than the expenses for food. The court of Louis X was renowned throughout Europe as the Scented Court, where new smells were spread every day. At this time, the scented waters were very popular, like toilet vinegars, which have disinfectant burt tubes. During this time, marie Antoinette's perfume had recently been recreated and in its extremely limited edition, 25ml flask may be purchased for 8,000 euros, approximately 10,290 US dollars. At the time, the demand for scented products was ever-growing and some fragrances are made to measure. It was during the 18th century that the first perfume houses were created, like Piver and Lubin in France and Floris in London.
Speaker 1:The mid-18th century marked a turning point in perfumery by the transition of heady fragrances to hide stench to fresher and more delicate scents. It is at this time that a novelty will turn upside down the scented compositions. The Eau de Cologne arrives from Germany and immediately seduces the middle class, who will consume it in every single form. Consumed it in wine in friction via enema injections on sugar. They perfumed the houses with the fresh potpourri arranged in silver or porcelain cups. Musk, civet and amber are dropped in favor of floral and fruity scents that are found in delicate flasks.
Speaker 1:The Enlightenment philosophers would gradually restore the place of water in toilets as opposed to scented toilet fragrances, even if we still have perfumed hair and clothes, the practice of ablution reappears, the bidet settled in the bathroom of aristocrats in the 1730s to fight bad smells, and at the end of the 18th century perfume was enjoying the status of high fashion and the higher one's importance, the better one's fragrance. Like I mentioned, rank classism. During this time we saw a significant turn toward the practice of modern perfumery as we encounter it today was the abolition of apothecary and perfume guilds in France during 1990, nope, 1871. During the French Revolution, with the government controlling everything, they got to control what class of a person could be a perfumer and what products they were permitted to produce. The tiktok astrologers, uh, keep telling me that this time period, the french revolution, was the last time that pluto was in aquarius. And since pluto just re-entered Aquarius, stuff is about to get crazy, stuff is about to go down, apparently. What does this mean? I have no idea. I thought it was a fun tidbit to add and December was actually like low-key crazy. So maybe there is some truth to it. But really, who is to say? Not me?
Speaker 1:During the 19th century, changing tastes and the development of chemistry laid the foundation for modern perfumery. Perfume was usually derived from a single flower, but in the 19th century would become the commodity par excellence, a confluence of the artistic expression of perfume and the evolving trend of consumer predilections. The deodorizing drive of the mid-19th century, however, led to a demise of perfume and a new conservative outlook on it Promotion of germ theory and the understanding that filth carried illness rather than water Scents of all kind began to be perceived as evil. Perfume receded to the background and took on a muted public image. At that time, wearing fragrances became gender-stereotyped sweet floral blends were deemed exclusively female, while sharper woodsy, pine and cedar notes were characterized as masculine. As new, more cheaply produced synthetic ingredients became available near the start of the 20th century, production costs dropped and perfume products became more accessible to lower-income consumers. Therefore, profits boomed.
Speaker 1:But early to mid-20th centuries, men with any credible social position had stopped wearing fragrances altogether. It's that theory that as soon as it becomes available to everyone, no one wants it. Exclusivity Men at the time were expected to smell of clean skin and tobacco, where women of respectable social standings were expected to smell only faintly of floral notes. Only prostitutes wear the once prestigious heavy rose scents. In the 1930s, floral scents made a comeback, but they did so in a complex and daring composition connected to the glamour of cinema. The perfumes were sold in astonishing and impactful bottles, again recalling the glam starlit look.
Speaker 1:The evolution of women's rights in the Western world meant that the young women no longer wanted to smell like their grandmothers. Meant that the young women no longer wanted to smell like their grandmothers Fair enough. And even perfumery, along with the cosmetic and fashion industry, had undergone important shifts during this decade. It had become democratized by applying makeup, dressing and smelling. Similarly, one of the fundamental elements that once differentiated women in accordance with their social class has been eliminated. They gave up gatekeeping, so everyone smelled and looked the same. I don't want to say that sounds like right now, but it does sound like right now via the TikTok sphere.
Speaker 1:Um, immediately post-World War II era, um, immediately post-World War II era, trends broke away from the perception of women that had existed in the previous decades and the elegance of the so-called new look by Dior simply a new version of glamour, but rather a nostalgic statement about a world where gender identities and hierarchies of class and race were part of a common understanding. Melancholia also changed the landscape of perfumery. The return to more traditional femininity brought back highly floral fragrances packaged in pink instead of strong, heavy perfumes that previous decades had shifted towards. So we're now towards softer, less aggressive perfumery, and this can help explain how the transition and position of women changed. Post-world War II, advertisements were not selling perfumes directly to women anymore, but rather targeted to men, who would then purchase for women. During the 30s and 40s, surrealist Lenore Finney and Salvador Dali designed flakens icons for the fashion house Elsa Schiaparelli. I mentioned her in my Tiffany's episode as well, so it might be time to do a whole episode on her, but Dolly would later join a growing list of artists who released perfumes, among them Nikki de St Fally, andy Warhol and Anika Yee. Perfume houses have likewise taken inspiration from the art world, with scents inspired by art galleries, such as Andrea Max Smart from 2010,. Memo Paris Marfa from 2016. The list goes on and on. Complementing these art-inspired fragrances are many contemporary artists who have come to utilize scent in their work in order to test the veracity of how bodies identify, and social systems have come to be defined. A break in American perfume repression came unexpectedly during the otherwise conservative era of the 1950s.
Speaker 1:Chanel no 5. We know Chanel no 5. We know her well on this podcast. Chanel No.5 was created in 1921. It was the fifth fragrance in the line developed by Ernest Beau for Coco Gabrielle Chanel. This fragrance enjoyed popularity in France and Europe after its inception, but became a blockbuster when it launched in the United States Because our girl, marilyn Monroe, endorsed it. She famously said that all she wore to bed were two drops of Chanel no 5, and that made everyone go crazy.
Speaker 1:Chanel no 5 was not only hurdled into fame by a sex goddess, but is also tainted with the odors of sex itself. It's composed of four floral aldehyde, and this aldehyde is composed of aldehydes jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, iris, amber and patchouli. Chanel loves patchouli. Patchouli is a component that lives on your skin for hours and hours and hours. Chanel no 5 sparked a movement of really obscene fragrance incorporations. Might I just list them? Sure, chanel no 5 also included secretions from a perineal gland of a cevet cat, which is just secretions of a strong musky fecal odor, which is so fun. But we also saw this in ancient perfume times. We also get ambergris from sperm whales. It's vomit from sperm whales, I should say. I think last time I looked it up I said it was whale sperm. Nope, it is from sperm whales and it is vomit. But that that's the weird part of perfume history.
Speaker 1:21st century perfume is experimental and individualized. What does our scent in the 21st century say about the current world? This year, gourmand and floral aromas are making a comeback, considered to be the scent of adolescence. You're probably wondering how I feel about gourmand scents. Thank you so much for asking. Usually I hate them. Usually I do, but there are one or two that I love and I do hold space to like other gourmand scents. But a perfumer named vasquez notes that he hasn't noticed many structural changes connected to the economic crisis during the 21st century in perfume. Although, after the pandemic, there is a greater desire to change perfumes and try new scents, we've become less conservative with the emergence of lifestyle perfumes, which also speaks volumes about the current times, and when I say lifestyle perfumes, I mean like aesthetic-based perfumes. Additionally, this has become a moment for niche perfumes and those centered around sustainability.
Speaker 1:The past decade of the 21st century have indeed been marked by various social changes. The feminist emergence in the 2010s has been a significant impact on many commercial and cultural fields. Can we also perceive this change in scents, just as we observe it in the evolution of women's roles a hundred years ago, by looking at their favorite fragrances? Sure, new fragrance houses such as Healy Byredo and Maison Mantine do not distinguish between genders. Scents are either good or bad, not feminine or masculine. The shift toward gender neutral approach in perfumery rejects the changing societal views on gender roles and breaking down the traditional stereotypes.
Speaker 1:21st century perfume is kind of the attitude of if I like it, I'll wear it, just as I feel general societal and gender roles are. If I like it, I'm going to do it. I don't think we're as conservative in that regard, though one could argue that Gen Z is becoming a little more conservative than millennials. Just and honestly, I blame that on the pandemic, to be completely honest with you, but that is just my opinion. Anyway, perfume has taken many shapes and forms and practices since ancient Mesopotamia and I find it to be inspiring. I find it to be inspiring that so, so long ago, something was created via incense and I still wear it to this day, I still collect it, I still want to know everything about it. So it is kind of just so cutesy that humankind has kept up with the tradition of scenting your body and I think that's really cool. Anyway, that is perfume throughout history.
Speaker 1:I hope you enjoyed. I hope you found some part or portion of this to be so interesting. I found it to be very interesting and now I can talk to anybody about ancient Roman perfume practices and the xenophobia around ancient perfume and the scents, and it's really funny that they were xenophobic toward foreign scents when we wouldn't really have scents without ancient Persia and the Middle East. So, thank you Really appreciate that. Like I said, I hope you enjoyed this episode. If you'd like to follow us, please do hit that little follow button on wherever you're listening to your pod. I'd really appreciate it if you gave us a rating. Personally I'd prefer a five star, but you do what feels true to you. If you'd like to follow me on anything on my personal accounts, the links are in the show notes. I have a link tree. It's just one link, so you just click on that and all my links will be there. Um yeah, I'll see you next time. Bye guys.
